In an open letter published in ‘The Times’, renowned chefs and restaurateurs like Cyrus Todiwala, Raymond Blanc, and Michel Roux urged the Crown Estate, the landlord of Victory House—home to the Michelin-star restaurant for nearly a century since April 1926—to “act responsibly”.
Last summer, the owners of Veeraswamy, MW Eat, were informed that their lease would not be renewed, as the Crown Estate intends to expand the ground floor reception area for the offices located on the upper floors of the building.
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The chefs expressed that the conversion of “such a restaurant into offices would be sacrilege, signifying a major loss for both London’s culinary landscape and our tourism economy, which thrives on the city’s unique and diverse landmarks.”
“As the Crown understands, heritage cannot be relocated, nor can history be replaced. Preserving Veeraswamy is a responsible act by the Crown that upholds London’s status as one of the world’s premier dining and tourist destinations,” they asserted in their letter to the newspaper.
The Crown Estate is owned by the British monarch “in right of the Crown,” meaning that while the King oversees the estate during his reign, it is not considered his private property. Consequently, he does not directly manage or make decisions concerning its assets, and the estate’s profits are transferred to the UK government’s treasury.
“We have nurtured it, adapted it, and kept it current. It’s likely the oldest surviving restaurant in the world with such a rich history, and it would be a tragedy if it were to lose its location,” remarked Ranjit Mathrani, whose MW Eat group, alongside sisters Namita and Camellia Panjabi, operates other popular Indian establishments in London, such as Chutney Mary and Amaya.
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Veeraswamy was founded by Edward Palmer, the great-grandson of General William Palmer, who served as Military and private secretary to Warren Hastings, the first Governor General of India, and Mughal Princess Faisan Nissa Begum. Palmer was reportedly inspired by his great-grandmother when creating the initial menu.
“Our esteemed guests have included the late Majesty the Queen (Elizabeth II), Princess Royale (Princess Anne), and other international royals. The Crown Estate opted not to extend our lease beyond June 24, requiring us to vacate in order to reclaim and repurpose areas of our restaurant on the ground and first floors for their development initiative,” Mathrani shared.
The Crown Estate stated that they need to undertake a “comprehensive refurbishment” to ensure that the building meets modern standards and is fully utilized.
“We recognize how challenging this situation is for MW Eat. Our priority remains collaborating with all involved parties and includes offering to assist in finding new premises within our portfolio so they can continue their presence in the West End, along with providing financial compensation,” they explained.
While Veeraswamy’s lease expired at the end of June this year, MW Eat will continue to operate at the location due to legal action under its protected tenancy rights, with a court hearing anticipated next year. A favorable legal outcome for the restaurant under long-term tenants’ enhanced rights could result in a lease extension.
