Myth 1: All retinoids are created equal.
Retinoids are vitamin A–derived compounds, both natural and synthetic, known for their wide range of benefits, from combating photoaging to improving overall skin quality.
They’re also a category with many different names and forms, which can make them confusing to navigate. “The general public gets the prescription-strength Retin-A [the brand name for tretinoin] confused with over-the-counter retinol,” explains Delray Beach, FL, dermatologist Dr. Janet Allenby. “Tretinoin has studies as part of its FDA-approval to prove its efficacy; retinol, which is considered a cosmeceutical, does not require the same stringency.”
Campbell, CA, dermatologist Amelia K. Hausauer, MD, says that, at a very basic level, the different forms also interact differently with the skin. “When you apply a retinol, it is actually changed into tretinoin, and it is 20 times less potent than prescription formulations.”